Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Road Trip 7: Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Since we still had the car for another day, Kris and I drove around the Snæfellsnes peninsula, outlined in blue on the map below. The weather wasn't the greatest, but it didn't take away from the beautiful scenery. we got up super early and left before 6am! We drove straight to the peninsula, to our first stop at Staðastaður. Our guide book said that there was lots of mineral water here to drink, but we couldn't find it! We didn't want to traipse all over someone's lawn looking for running water, so we left.
Our route



Staðastaður

The wind was so strong that it was blowing water back up the waterfall!
Our next stop was at Lýsuhöll, where there is a hot mineral water pool. However, this was closed for the winter, so we were let down again!
peek-a-boo
Swinging in the middle of a lava field
yay!
Next, we went to Buðahraun. Here we found an adorable little black church, which I've seen in lots of pictures. It was right in the middle of a lava field, but we didn't get out and explore too much, since it was raining quite hard.
Kris at the black church
Lave fields
Our next stop was Arnarstapi. This gave us a spectacular view of many jagged cliffs sticking straight out of the water. There were some caves that we didn't get to go to, since they were in the water! The highlight of this spot was finding the natural lava arch.
Cute archway
waves waves waves
Snæfellsjökull
:)
Cliffs in the middle of nowhere!
Jagged lava formations everywhere
Natural lava arch
Loads of seaweed!
Our next stop was at the beaches in Lóndrangar and Malarrif. Here there were two pillars: the larger, the pillar of Christianity, and the smaller, the heathen pillar. There were a few black stone/sand beaches here, with powerful waves crashing onto the shore.

Two pillars
Crashing waves
Next we went to Öndverðarnes, along a long twisty road to reach a pretty, bright yellow lighthouse. ON our way back along the curvy road, we stopped at Skarðsvík, where there was a yellow beach! This was absolutely beautiful, with black sand making pretty designs in the yellow sand.
Yellow lighthouse!
The yellow sand beach
It was so pretty
Following these wonderful stops, we drove through Grundarfjörður, looking for the elf house. Apparently, there is a stone between houses 82 and 86 - the elf lives at 84. However, not many of the houses had numbers, so we could not find it.

Our final, terrifying stop, was at Helgafell. This "holy mountain" is supposed to grant three wished to someone who has never climber it before, provided some conditions are followed: You cannot look back or speak while you are climbing, you much face east while making your wishes, and the wishes must be of good intent. We were excited to give it a go, but the wind was so strong that we did not get the chance! I made it about two thirds of the way up the hill before giving up: as I picked up my foot to take a step, it was getting blown way over the other one, making walking nearly impossible. I'm not usually scared of heights at all, but I guess that changes when there is a legit chance of being blown off!


Road Trip 6: Heydalur, West Fjords to Reykjavík

We left for Reykjavík on Saturday, completely worn out! We followed the pink stretch of road as marked on the map in the first post of the trip. The day was relatively uneventful - clear roads and pretty solid plans. We stopped in Heydalur to soak in the natural hot tub there, which was fun. There was sand on the bottom, and even algae! There were horses milling about, adding to the serenity of the location. It was near a hotel of sorts, so there were a few people around, though there were more dogs than people!
The only junkyard I've seen in Iceland
A horse at Heydalur
:)
The natural pool at Heydalur
One of the many dogs
A very windy drive back!
The formerly horrible road has been plowed!

Road Trip 5: Vestfirðir and Aldrei fór ég Suður

On Good Friday, we enjoyed the bright sun and lack of precipitation by exploring a few communities in Vestfirðir - the West Fjords. This is shown in purple on the map from the first post about the trip! First thing to note is that they have different electrical outlets than the rest of Iceland. We didn't know what to do until we found a drawer full of converters, thank goodness! Silly Iceland and its surprises.

We started our day by heading to the tourist info centre, where a nice man helped us plan out our next couple of days. We started by heading down to the Ísafjörður harbour. There were lots of cats wandering around, which got loads of attention from us. There were 4 buildings (one of which houses a museum) that make up the oldest building cluster in Iceland.

Then we went to the church in town, which had beautiful wall art of birds flying away, all different from each other! After that, we parked the car and walked around the town for a bit. The buildings all have the date in which they were built on them. There were a lot from 1898, and 1986.

Our first stop was to go to Suðureyri. It is a tiny fishing town, with a population of only 312. We drove around (which took all of three minutes), and noticed that the most common buildings were fish-drying huts. The air smelled very fresh - to me! I love the smell of the ocean and of fish... Kris did not share this opinion. In our brochure, it said that in 1995 an avalanche caused the entire town to be moved 1.5 km, but we couldn't really find any evidence of that. We had an "Icelandic Picnic" (sitting in the car with the windows rolled down far enough to hear the ocean but up high enough to shield us from the wind).

Then we drove to Bolungarvík. This was another fishing village, but with a population of 888. We wandered around the community centre, which was absolutely packed. We saw a huge group of people returning to a farm on horseback. Not sure if it was a group of tourists, or the community out for a sunny Good Friday ride?

Upon our return to Ísafjörður, we went swimming (surprise!). The pool was very small - one pool and one hot pot - and the locker room didn't have lockers, only hooks! It was very relaxing though, as always, and there were lots of balls to play catch with, which was nice since they are usually rare in community pools here.  After that we had dinner at a seemingly very popular pizza place.

Friday night was the first night of Aldrei fór ég Suður - I Never Went South, a musical festival held each year to showcase local artists among Icelandic artists who have become more well known. The festival was in a warehouse which had been cleared out, and a stage put up. At first we though it was strange, but then we realized it was probably the most logical place in a small town to hold that many people!
Ísafjörður harbour
Some cute sculptures at the Ísafjörður harbour
Some of the oldest buildings in Iceland
Emily has excellent cat-finding skills
A boat at the Ísafjörður harbour
How to swim in Iceland: wear gloves, shoes, and a hat
Inside the church
Sculpture outside of the church
Ísafjörður 
Bubbuhús, built in 1885
Ísafjörður 
Fish drying in Suðureyri
Suðureyri
Memorial to Magnús H. Magnússon in Suðureyri
Bolungarvík
The view driving back towards Ísafjörður
Aldrei fór ég Suður
Aldrei fór ég Suður
The sky at 11:37pm!

Road Trip 4: Akureyri through Öxnadalsheiði

On the third day of our trip, April 21, we drove from Akureyri to Ísafjörður, as indicated by the yellow line on the map in the first post about our road trip. The drive through the Öxnadalsheiði valley was very pretty, where we stopped at a monument to enjoy the views. The road there is 540 metres above sea level. 

Once we got into the West Fjords, the weather changes from lovely spring to complete winter! The road from Hólmavík to Reykjanes was mostly a complete whiteout, so I was glad that Kris was driving. The drifts on the side of the road were taller than me! We passed a type of plow that wasn't clearing the roads, but pushing back the snow on one side to prevent the snowdrifts from overtaking the road.  Once we got out of the storm and into Reykjanes, we stopped at a gas pump (which didn't work) that was beside an old pool. Apparently, the pool is still in use, but it was quite run-down looking. I suppose it must be easy for algae to grow in such warm water. There was also a summer motel there, which was also extremely run down. In the right light, the little place would have looked like a scene out of a horror movie!

We finally arrived at our hostel, Korpudalur Hostel. It is about a 20 minute drive from Ísafjörður, on a little farm in a middle of a valley. There are gorgeous views, but when we first showed up, the dirt road was a really tricky drive. However, the next day the weather was fantastic, and there were no problems whatsoever. 

A monument by the road in Öxnadalsheiði
Spectacular views
The shoreline
Driftwood piles
One of the many rock formations
The road from Hólmavík to Reykjanes
The old pool at Reykjanes