Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Road Trip 2: Jökulsárlón and the East Fjords

Continuing on with our first day (the green part of the map in the previous post). On our first road trip (in February), we stopped at the glacial lagoon - Jökulsárlón. This time, we went across the road to where the lagoon empties into the ocean - wow! I thought the black sand beach in Vík was breathtaking - even more so with chunks of glacier on the dark sand! We got to suck on pieces of glacier - super pure, super old ice. We were climbing on the pieces of glacier, and some of them were rocking in the waves. The pictures definitely do not do this beautiful beach justice, but I tried!
Floating on pieces of glaciers is how polar bears sometimes come to Iceland - and also how birds go down the river
Hiding under a piece of glacier
The waves hitting a piece of ice
Jökulsárlón beach
Jökulsárlón beach


Our next stop was to visit with some horses on the side of the road :). We had brought along a bag of carrots, but they were very wary of eating them! Some would eat them out of our hand, and some would just knock them to the ground and then continue to sniff the treats there. They were separated into two different pastures, and one was bound and determined to get to the other side! After we left the horses, we passed many more  -  as well as reindeer!
Horses
Attempting to feed him carrots!
Trying to get to the other side...
Iceland horse
Reindeer :)
Driving through the East Fjords was a very pretty and twisty turny drive. We drove through Breiðdalsvík, Stöðvarfjörður, and Fáskróðsfjörður, then through a 6km tunnel through a mountain to reach Reyðarfjörður. Each of the villages were tiny fishing villages. Parts of the main road were gravel, which didn't make for the greatest drive, but the beautiful boats and abandoned buildings made up for it! None of the communities had things open - the touristy things seemed to only open on Tuesdays and Fridays, and the community places such as pools were already closed, so we continued driving. We finally stopped in Egilsstaðir for the night, and fell asleep in the car. Egilsstaðir is a newer town in Iceland, only 50 years old. The population of 1500 lives in houses that are far from the typical Icelandic fashion of coloured concrete. In Egilsstaðir the houses are  mostly wood or covered in siding. In a suburb, you could forget you were even in Iceland (except for maybe the giant mountains in the background).
An old lighthouse by the coast
An old boat!

The coastline
Old hay bales
...really old.
Another old building
Wall art
Driving through the tunnel to Reyðarfjörður
Sunset driving to Egilsstaðir

Monday, April 25, 2011

Road Trip 1: Eyjafjallajökull and Kirkjubæjarklaustur

On April 19 Emily, Kris and I set off to drive around the country. We took the route as outlined in the picture below, colour-coded for easy viewing :) If you want to see in more detail, you can click on the picture!

Kris's blog (http://kitiniceland.blogspot.com) has some great stories from the driver's (and terrified passenger...) perspective!
Our 5-day road trip
Day one was the green drive, along the southern part of the country. We could cover a lot of ground because we've already seen at lot that this part of the country has to offer (see "South Iceland Roadtrip" in February). We left at 7am, and drove through a few towns before getting to the barren South coast. We drove through Selfoss, which had super snowy roads, and Hella, which had populations of 6,500 and 650, respectively. We got really lucky with weather for the first couple of days, and were graced with sunshine nearly the entire day!

Mountains in the early morning sun
A pipe carrying hot water
Early morning sun
The snowy main road in Selfoss
We took a break from driving once we pulled onto road 242, which leads to the ice cap Eyjafjallajökull - which covers the volcano that errupted last year. The entire area is covered in black ash (which, on the day we went, was covered in snow). There is a pool nearby that was closed, but which is full of ash still. There was a raised line along the base of the volcano which covered a pipe that was exposed in areas.

Kris climbed up the scree - a new word for me! A scree is the rock and debris at the bottom of a mountain. Iceland is especially known for having large screes by most of its larger mountains. The high winds in Iceland drive rain into the holes and cracks in the sides of the mountain. Since the temperature fluctuates so much here, the water then often freezes, breaking small pieces off. These small pieces fall and gather at the base of the mountains.

Eyjafjallajökull mountain
A house by Eyjafjallajökull
The snow-covered ash
Kris climbing up the scree
Loads of ash!
Emily and I on an exposed part of the pipe
Running by Eyjafjallajökull
The old pool

One thing I've noticed but haven't managed to take a decent picture of yet is the way people living beside a mountain protect their homes. Falling snow can be a problem, so they plant trees above their houses and farms, in the following pattern. I hope you all enjoy my fantastic paint skills.
We passed one car overturned in the southern part, which was kind of scary. It looked like everyone was standing outside and okay, but we passed an ambulance a little while later. Hopefully it was nothing serious.

We stopped in the town of Vík í Mýrdal (Vík for short) for a washroom break and to buy some souvenirs. There are only about 300 people in Vík, but it is the largest town for 70km, so it is an important stopping place for travelers. There is no landmass between Vík and Antarctica, so the winds can be quite brutal. Tales are told in Vík of trolls who used to try to steal fishermen's boats at nighttime, only to be caught by the morning light and turned to stone (trolls turn to rock in sunlight, naturally), accounting for the large rock formations in the water.
These tiny little mysterious houses are all over the place!
Vík
Former Trolls
After filling up the tank in Vík, we continued on to Kirkjubæjarklaustur. This is a little town of only 160 people, our only adventure here was at Systrafoss (The Waterfall of the Sisters). The waterfall split and then came together to flow under a large rock - and tasted delicious!
Systrafoss 
Systrafoss 
Systrafoss 
Systrafoss 
A little shed in Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Drinking from Systrafoss
I learned another word later that day: sandur. A sandur is a "wasteland"of black sand and glacial debris. As the glacier moves slowly along the land, it erodes the land underneath, and moves silt and dirt along with it. Then, the "tongue" (branch of a glacier) has meltwater that deposits this debris across a flat plain. The heavier, larger rocks get deposited first, with the smaller dirt and stones being carried further. We drove through Skeiðarársandur, which is the largest sandur in southern Iceland - a very boring drive.

Sheep crossing!
Skeiðarársandur
Skeiðarársandur
One of the tongues of Vatnajökull, the largest glacier outside of the arctic regions
A different tongue of Vatnajökull

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Spring has Sprung

Well I think it's safe to say that spring here in Iceland has a mind of its own. I thought the weather changed fast in Nova Scotia... Iceland has us beat. In the span of a half hour, no lie, it is pretty common to see mist, sleet, snow, sun, and then pouring rain. Followed by gusts of wind. It makes playing frisbee tricky, but makes the beach even more beautiful.
I thought this little guy was a robin at first
Yesterday I ventured to the end of our street to have a walk along the ocean. It smelled so good! I think the wind must come from a different direction here, because all I could smell was salty freshness :)

This is towards the harbour - didn't smell as good!
Cute little beachy house



It's only wobbly because of the wind, swear!

Flowers!

We had to follow of course
They're celebrating their last day of Junior College!

Where's Waldo?

Sunday, April 10, 2011

April Showers Bring May Flowers?

Well, it's the 10th of April, and I just may spend my second day inside since I got here. The first was just a couple of days ago. The weather is getting warmer - highs of 7°C most days, but super super rainy! Today the wind is so strong that it ripped a sign that the university had even folded down into its "Windy Day Position". Yikes!

Nothing to exciting has been happening here in the past few days! Classes wrapped up on Thursday, and now is the time for papers and a bit of studying... but not too much! Everyone was in the mindset for staying in this weekend, so we made up a game of Battle Ships and rummaged through boxes we found in the attic, with the prized finds being enough Santa hats for everyone.

Thursday night was a concert by Amiina at a bar that always had great concerts, Faktorý. I was told that they  often accompany Sigur Rós both in studio and on tour. Their music is just about as relaxing as you can get. They started out as a string quartet, but now play everything from xylophone and bells to crystal glass and saws.

We also figured out how to sunbathe here! We went to the pool one afternoon when it was really sunny out - but still only about 4°C. While we made the mad dash outside from the locker rooms to the pool, we noticed people sitting out on the benches, and wondered how in the world they were sitting there in the near-freezing weather, in only their bathing suits, enjoying the sun? Then it happened: We figured out the trick! You sit in the hottest hot tub (about 48°C I think) for about 5 minutes - you literally cannot stand it any longer than that. Then, since your insides are just about melting, it feels really really good to sit on a bench and cool off for about 15 minutes! Then, you repeat the process. Might seem pretty lame, but it was quite the discovery haha.

Hopefully the next couple of weeks will bring some more adventures to post about!

xx
The brass section of the band opening for Amiina
Amiina
Amiina
The weather literally changes every few minutes - here we've got some gigantic snowflakes
Sometimes you have to make up your own games
and play dress up